# Car Auction 101 — Buying Smart at ADESA, Copart & IAAI\n\nPublic car prices are retail. Auction prices are wholesale. That gap is where car flippers make their money.\n\n## The Big Three\n\n**ADESA** — Run-and-drive vehicles (lease returns, rentals, dealer trade-ins). Best for clean title inventory.\n\n**Copart** — Insurance salvage and total-loss vehicles. Lower prices, higher risk.\n\n**IAAI** — Similar to Copart. Salvage, parts, heavy repairers.\n\n## How to Register\n\nAll three require a dealer license. Options: get your own ($8K-$20K), use a broker ($150-$600/car), or [join the FlipLane co-op](/partner) — $250 one-time membership, immediate auction access.\n\n## Bidding Strategy\n\n1. Pull the VIN before you bid\n2. Check comparables on Facebook Marketplace and KBB\n3. Set your max bid — write it down, stick to it\n4. Add all-in costs: buyer fee ($200-$800), transport ($100-$400), storage ($30-$75/day)\n\n## Common Rookie Mistakes\n\nOverbidding on excitement. Ignoring transport costs. Buying flood cars. Not knowing your local market.\n\n## How Much Can You Save at Auction?\n\n[See our real price comparison between FlipLane Buyer Lane and dealerships →](/blog/buyer-lane-vs-dealership-real-price-comparison) — on identical vehicles, the gap is often $4,000–$7,000.\n\n[Ready to access auctions? Apply to the co-op →](/apply)